Gwent Mountaineering Club NEWSLETTER Number 13  May 16 2001

Despite the Foot and Mouth crisis, climbing members have possibly had the best of the few relaxations in access restrictions over the last fortnight or so. This has allowed some good days out as you can see below. Additionally paths and climbs are opening up in parts of Snowdon and the Glyders (detailed on last page). Also the trip to Skye is on. 

The big news is that the committee and other members have created an emergency programme to cover to the end of July (see overleaf) . Thanks to everyone for helping out with information and for volunteering to lead existing or new events. The next newsletter will be in 2 months time, hopefully around mid July with further details for August and September. Hope to see you in Beddgelert this weekend! 

David Bingham

WHAT’s HAPPENED

South Pembroke, May Day Bank Holiday Weekend

Colin Powell writes:
With Dave’s North Wales meet cancelled, climbers decided to go to South Pembrokeshire camping at Penally Court Farm, just West of Tenby for the holiday weekend. The BMC web site was not completely accurate regarding what crags were open in the Gilter area just across the road from our camp site, and some of the access paths were closed. When told of the problem the camp site owner, whose sheep grazed the access paths, told us where we could go, so there were still plenty of crags and good routes available. At various times there were 23 members and friends on the meet, with one group walking sections of the coastal path, and a fine circular route round Stackpole and the Bosherton Lily ponds. Tides were perfect, being low at mid day, and we climbed at the Rusty Point - Crescent Slab area, Hidden Slabs and Mother Carey’s Kitchen. Routes ranged from a moderate to Hard VS 5a, with most in the V Diff – Severe range. All appeared to enjoy themselves. With almost non-stop sunshine during the day some white knees were seen, and by the return some red noses! – and not from the plentiful wine and beer. Personally I managed 14 routes in the three days, all of them good, and still have sore fingers writing this on Tuesday. 

A good meet on the first warm weekend of the year in Britain. Lets hope the rest of the summer goes as well. I hope to climb every weekend.

Three Cliffs Bay, May Bank Holiday

Dave Bingham writes:
On the Monday four members plus two others went along to Three Cliffs Bay on the Gower. Not surprisingly we weren’t the only ones who had been surfing the BMC website for open crags, and so we did have plenty of company! The weather was glorious and we got plenty of climbs in. Routes done ranged from Diff to Severe. 2 did the Traverse of the Pinnacles (Diff) in leather boots to practice their moving together skills and the other long route was Plumb Line (45m Diff) which goes from the sand to the highest (third) pinnacle. The tide came in at around 5 and then there was time for drinks and icecreams at Pennard in the warm sunshine. A good day out (despite the fact that I accidentally left my Nike running shoes to the mercy of the tide!!) Thankfully they were due for the 
bin anyway!

EMERGENCY PROGRAMME

Sundays/weekends

  Thursdays

•  In addition members are meeting at the Welsh International Climbing Centre at Bargoed during the week.
  
  FOOT AND MOUTH ACCESS
  
  Latest news - Parts of Snowdonia open
  
  From the website page: http://www.snowdonia-npa.co.uk/home.html (from Snowdonia National Park Authority) a range of maps showing access areas on Snowdon, the Glyders and other areas can be found which will be updated as access is increased in the park (updated on 13th May). Details are also very comprehensive on the BMC site http://thebmc.co.uk/. Since the cancellation of the previous meet at Beddgelert, areas in the Glyders have now opened. Tryfan, Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach, and Y Garn are open when approached form the Ogwen side only. All climbs on the East Face of Tryfan are open as are Idwal slabs , Milestone Buttress and most of the Ogwen scrambles on the Glyders side. 5 paths on Snowdon (Miners, PYG, Watkin, Snowdon Horseshoe, Llanberis) remain open also.
  
  IMPORTANT Access has been agreed with farmers on the basis that the following “walkers’ code” is followed, re-produced here from the Snowdonia NPA website mentioned above:
   “If you keep or handle farm livestock, please stay away
  Otherwise you are welcome to use the paths which have been opened on Snowdon provided that you follow the Walkers’ Code:
•  Stay on the path and leave gates exactly as you find them. Respect "no access" notices.
•  Don’t go near sheep, cows, goats, pigs or deer.
•  Don’t go into any field if you can’t easily avoid those animals. 
•  If you do come across them, walk slowly away, retracing your steps if necessary.
•  Don’t leave waste food or litter anywhere and don’t feed any animal.
•  Use disinfectant where provided 
•  Clean your boots and vehicles after each walk or visit to the countryside.
•  Please note that dogs are not allowed on these paths while the Foot and Mouth precautions are in place.
   Please follow this advice to avoid endangering farm animals.”
  
  The Pinnacle
  
  Chris Barber is still seeking articles for the next edition of the club journal, the Pinnacle. As usual articles can be about club events or personal experiences, and anecdotal items relating to the club’s 25 year history are particularly welcome on this occasion. The Pinnacle will be produced at some stage this year when sufficient material has been received. Chris will be pleased to receive all items whether they be 2 paragraphs or 2 pages!
  
  
  IMPORTANT NOTE ON FLY WALL FROM BMC
  
  

Gloucestershire CC have advised that it is legitimate for climbers to use the quarry lane (from almost opposite the Rising Sun to the Woodcroft Quarry gate) solely to reach the quarry and Fly Wall for climbing. This path remains officially closed, as do all other rural rights-of-way in the county. The Offa’s Dyke path that runs north and south from the quarry should not be used for this or any other purpose.

Fly Wall is not part of the Lancaut Nature Reserve, though it is bounded by the Reserve on both flanks, and the Reserve remains closed. It is essential NOT to go any further towards GO Wall or the top of the scree slope. Please confine activities to Fly Wall only from the left-hand end (as you face the wall) to Jos’e and the Fly (and its variations) near the right-hand end.

Seeing climbers use the quarry lane may cause some local resentment. Please do everything you can to minimize this by courteous and considerate behaviour. Any problems in this respect or further infringement onto the closed areas could make the situation untenable and even have longer-term consequences.

Please note: all the remainder of Wintour’s Leap and its approaches and descents remain closed; as do all other crags and quarries in the Wye Valley and Forest of Dean. However, liaison is established with relevant authorities and any news of actual or imminent openings will be fully publicized.

John Willson
BMC Access Rep