Gwent Mountaineering Club

 NEWSLETTER

Number 15: Sept 19th 2001

 

 

 

 

Included in this issue…. General news items and important announcements, a report on the last N Wales club meet plus special reports on members’ personal trips of the summer.  Over a dozen members have ventured onto the alpine peaks this year, which is encouraging. Thanks as always to all who have contributed a report or given information upon which the newsletter is highly reliant.  Additionally the club journal, The Pinnacle, continues and Chris Barber is collating articles, essays and short items for the next edition due out later this year.

 

David Bingham

 

 

 

 

 

GENERAL NEWS

 

 

 

 

 

New venue for Thursday evenings!!

The new venue is the upstairs room of the Horseshoe PH at Mamhilad, GR 308047 on OS sheet 171.  Same time: 8pm. Our usual room at the Commodore in Cwmbran has become a residents’ lounge.  For those not familiar with the Horseshoes it should be noted that there are two car parks, the largest being at the back; so there’s plenty of room.

 

 

 

 

Annual General Meeting

The AGM is soon approaching (15th Nov).  As usual, members may to stand for election on the committee and may contact a committee member to find out what is involved.  Entry onto the nomination form (handled by the club secretary) is required 4 weeks prior to the AGM. 

 

 

 

 

Doug Scott lecture

in Abergavenny

 £6

 

Doug Scott, one of Britain’s famous mountaineers, is giving a slide show at the Abergavenny Theatre on Friday November 2nd, 7.30pm .  The show is titled  “Moments of being” and the standard price is £8.  Chris Barber has secured access to 30 tickets at the reduced price of £6 for club members, which is a good bargain (£4 for concessions).  To take advantage of this offer please contact Chris directly for ticket(s).

 

 

 

 

 

Winter programme

 

By now you’ve either got the new programme or will receive it very soon! The winter programme can be a tricky one to put together.  This year difficulties have multiplied because of the continuing Foot and Mouth problems and work on emergency programmes.  Therefore, a big thank you is owed to all those who have worked on the new programme in these difficult circumstances.

 

 

 

 

Kirkby Stephen Weekend rescheduled

 

Because of Foot and Mouth difficulties, the Kirkby Stephen weekend in November has been rescheduled to November 2002.  The Howgill Mountains, Wild Boar Fell, Swarth Fell and Wensleydale were all out of bounds when this decision was made and there have been at least half a dozen cases in the area around Kirkby Stephen during August and September.

 

 

 

 

Does anyone own a Troll Helmet?…….       ….Recall notice….

….read on!

 

I found this on the BMC website dated 30/8/01:

“In response to some investigation by the BMC Equipment Investigation Panel, and in response to advice from the Technical Committee, Troll have initiated a recall of all fibreglass helmets produced from October 1997 to January 2001. A helmet of this type was found to offer a significantly lower level of protection than claimed (or required by the EN Standard for mountaineering helmets) for vertical energy absorption (i.e. an impact to the top of the helmet). The reason for this was some inconsistency in the distance between the helmet shell and the webbing cradle attaching it to the climber’s head – in some cases the separation of the shell and cradle was insufficient to provide the level of protection required by the standard.  Anyone owning one of these helmets should contact Troll directly on 01457 878822 or mailto:sales@troll-climbing.com for further advice.”      

Or visit http://www.troll-climbing.com/

 

 

Future “Right to Roam” access in Scotland and Wales:

Moira Convery raises a concern for your consideration

I have just had a copy of the Ramblers Magazine that has an article expressing worry about the Access Bill for Scotland that will go through the Scottish Parliament soon. It claims that the Forum Group recommendations have been altered and that instead of clarifying access which has previously been taken for granted it will restrict it in ways never occurring before. They are running a petition which can be found on http://www.e-petitioner.org.uk 

For more information see the access action page on www.ramblers.org.uk .

 

Another circular from the Ramblers draws attention to the access mapping in Wales. There is a three-month consultation period only during which walkers can make representation for areas to be included.  Ramblers are looking for help in ensuring that every patch of land has been checked against the draft map so that no areas that should qualify are left off the map.  Anyone who is willing to help should contact the local access officer (of Ramblers) if known or contact RA Wales office Tel 01978 855148, or e-mail  : cerddwyr@wales.ramblers.org.uk

It is possible BMC is also looking for volunteers for the same reason.

 

 

 

 

 

 

WHAT’S BEEN HAPPENNING

 

 

 

Hugh Woodford reports on the Beddgelert meet

 

25-27 August:

The forecast of a warm sunny Bank Holiday weekend attracted 13 members plus one friend to Beddgelert.  Leaving work in Cardiff it was hot and muggy but, five hours later in Beddgelert, it was drizzling as we pitched out tents before heading to the pub before last orders.

Saturday morning brought more, heavier drizzle, but around lunch time the sun appeared and stayed with us for the remainder of the weekend.  On Saturday whilst most did low level walks or gear shopped, Terry Delbridge brushed up his navigation skills in the cloudy Glyders.  The evening was spent in the pub deciding what to do on Sunday.

The next day saw six of us do a grade 1 scramble up the llech Ddu spur on Carnedd Dafydd, on to Carnedd Llewellyn and Yr Elen, then back to Bethesda.  People also headed for the Glyders, doing First Pinnacle Rib, Hope and other routes on the Idwal Slabs, and Colin led Elli on her first outdoor climb.  Because of the slowness of climbers in front of them it took seven hours to complete Grooved Arete on Tryfan, but it meant that Elli became the 82nd member to record and entry in the GMC Tables.  Again, the evening was spent in the pub, discussing the day’s events and deciding what to do the next day.

On Monday morning we all packed up, some still not sure what to do.  After much deliberation some did Cnicht, others did the Arans, Cneifion Arete and First Pinnacle Rib.

North Wales meets are usually a guessing game, never knowing how many will turn up.  14 was the best turn out for a few years, thanks to good weather.  The programme stated ‘ Walks, climbs and scrambles’.  Most did at least two of the three and the weekend was a success.  Good pubs, food, walks, climbs, great scenery – what more could you ask for?

Why not join us for the next N Wales weekend – 13/14 October?  

 

 

Kay Beechey on First Pinnacle Rib, Tryfan.

(Photo: Dave Bingham)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ENTRIES INTO “GMC TABLES”

 

Recently In Scotland….

In July, Kay and Dave went to Scotland hoping to do some scrambling/easy climbing routes on Skye and other places, but the weather had other plans.  Based mostly in Glen Shiel with mist and drizzle on most days, we still got out into the mountains on 6 days; one day traversing Liathach in Torridon, 2 days in Glen Shiel, 2 days near Beinn Fhada and the other day in  Glen Garry. Ten new Munros, taking our totals to 74 (Dave) and 51 (Kay).  Not that we’re counting you understand.  (Only 210 to go for me!)  

 

In late July, Trevor Flint and Alan Howell were thwarted by weather on Tower Ridge and did Carn Mor Dearg and it’s arête onto Ben Nevis instead.  On the same trip they did the Aonach Eagach and Schiehallion on the next two days.  2 new Munros for Trevor and 4 for Alan over 3 days with some mixed weather (where have I heard that before!)

 

 

In August Caron Tan enjoyed another clutch of Munros on the Ben Lawers range taking her total thus far to 10.  She’s also done all the Lake District 2000-footers except for Pillar Rock and so this is her next target!

 

And in the Alps members have certainly been busy!

 

A handful of trips and over 20 Alpine

Peaks summitted.

 


The Matterhorn from the Alphubel summit

(Photo: Terry Delbridge)

 

Trip 1: Richard Smith had a crack at Mont Blanc with friends (his first time in the Alps), but sadly had to turn back because of the weather.  (I have heard of many other parties having the same difficulties throughout the summer).

 

 

Trip 2: In July Richard Bradford went with the guide Martin Moran thus starting his ‘alpine career’ with an Introductory Alpine Course.  Richard climbed Aig de La Tsa, Dent de Tsalion from the Bertol hut and Mont Blanc du Cheilon in the Evolene area (west of Zermatt valley) doing a mixture of ice climbs, rock climbs, crevasse rescue and glacier travel.  Mont Blanc de Cheillon was traversed from the Col de la Serpentine to Col de Cheilon.

 

 

Trip 3: On another trip Terry Delbridge had some time in Switzerland and Austria with friends, summitting the 4000m peaks of the Alphubel and the Alallinhorn.  With his daughter it was on to Austria to do the Grinbergspitze from Finkenberg near to Mayrhofen, a great scramble to the top at about 2800m. (2000m of ascent via the Gamshutte!!). He also tried the Ahornspitze via the Edelhutte, but had to retreat just 60m from the summit due to bad weather, (no snow gear and lots of exposure!)

 

 

 

The largest group that went to the Alps this year..

 

 

Trip 4: The largest group from the club had an excellent time, doing 10 4000m peaks between them as is shown in the table below.  Compiled by Trefor Beese (thanks)

Members: Keith Anderson, Trefor Beese, Vaughan Dugmore, Martin Passingham, Dave Simcock, Sue Webster. The first 7 ascents were a “peak-fest” on the Monte Rosa massif before they turned their attention to the technical peaks of the Rimfischhorn and Taschhorn.  A cheeky ascent of the Breithorn just before driving home completed the action-filled fortnight.  I’m assuming Trefor didn’t use his wife’s passport on the crossing home! (Ask Tref!). 

                                     2 indicates second ascent by that member

 

 

Date

Peak

Height

KA

TB

VD

MP

DS

SW

 

24/7

Vincent Pyramide

4215m

Y

Y

Y

Y

Y

Y

 

 

Balmenhorn

4167m

Y

Y

Y

Y

Y

Y

 

 

Schwarzhorn

4322m

Y

Y

Y

Y

Y

Y

 

 

Ludwigshohe

4341m

Y

Y

Y

Y

Y

Y

 

25/7

Parrotspitze

4436m

 

Y

Y

Y

Y

Y

 

 

Zumsteinspitze

4563m

 

Y

Y

Y

Y

Y

 

 

Signalkuppe

4556m

 

Y

Y

Y

 

Y

 

28/7

Rimpfischhorne

4199m

2

2

Y

Y

Y

Y

 

31/7

Taschhorn

4490m

Y

Y

Y

Y

 

Y

 

2/8

Breithorn

4164m

 

2

 

Y

Y

Y

 

Look out for the slide show on Jan 24th 2002

 

 

 

Trip 5: On another trip Dave Bingham did 4 4000m peaks and 2 other peaks. Did the Stockhorn, the Mettlehorn and Pollux for acclimatisiation in the first week and some enjoyable hiking as well. Then went with the International School of Mountaineering based in Leysin and did Castor, Zinalrothorn and Liskamm.  Still buzzing after a rather exposed traverse of the twin Liskamm peaks – 3000+ feet of 55-degree snow and ice below my feet and an icy cornice with holes in it!  Talk about concentration!  Really enjoyed the Zinalrothorn as well, though it was very busy due to parties leaving aside the snow plastered Matterhorn.

 

 

 

THE ‘ALTERNATIVE’ DOLOMITES

 

Julie Wassell’s account of her trip with Colin and Geraint…

Trip 6:

We set out with every intention of conquering many Via Ferratas, bagging a few snow-capped peaks and taking in a couple of climbs in the mountains. 

Arriving at Madonna de Campigno (our base for the Brenta Dolomites) a day early for meeting Colin and co., we managed to check out the local climbing areas before being rained off.  Then followed the biggest thunderstorm I have ever seen - there must have been at least 10cm of rain overnight.

In view of the forecast and reports that snow was covering most of the Via Ferratas, we decided to seek sunnier ‘climbs’ (sorry!) leaving the more hardy amongst us to brave out the weather. 

Our first stop was ARCO (near Lake Garda) about 40 miles south - there were crags everywhere you looked and an excellent range of grades.  After 5 days, the bad weather found us and we moved further to Finale on the Italian coast.  Here the climbing was mainly limestone and was excellent as long as you could find the crag due to : 1) Italian road signs being few and far between and often point in the wrong direction and 2) the guidebook rather underestimating the total walk in time (10mins = 2hrs!).

Finally, we drove further west to the Esterel region near Nice for some superb sandstone cragging before returning home some 3500 miles and 2 weeks later.

 

 

 

And the final trip to the Alps…

 

 

Trip 7: Trevor Flint and Alan Howell went out to Switzerland on September 6th.  The pair acclimatised prior to an ISM guided trip on peaks that included the Breithorn at the head of the Zermatt valley.  They met the guide and then climbed in Italy avoiding the rock climbs in Switzerland, which were out of condition because of heavy snowfall.  Several climbs on snow and rock peaks were undertaken as the week progressed including the Gran Paradiso and the Ciaforon from the Vittorio Emanuelle hut.  Both men had a good time despite original objectives being out of condition.

 

 

 

The Pyrenees

 

In the Pyrenees Richard Bradford notched up more peaks, one of them being Pic d’Anetto at 3404m whilst trekking a section of the Pyrenees High Route. 

 

 

 

Hugh’s visit to the Tien Shan

 

Hugh Woodford had a great time on a fortnight-long trekking holiday in the Tien Shan otherwise known as the Celestial mountains.  As well as getting good views of magnificent Khan Tengri and Pobeda (the highest in the area at over 7400m) Hugh increased his altitude record to 4253m on the South Inylchek Glacier. The much-feared Russian helicopter fly-in proved to be another highlight of the trip. 

 

Look out for the slide show that Hugh and Patrick Davies (a friend from the trip) will present on February 7th.

 

 

~~ Thank you again for all contributions ~~