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Gwent
Mountaineering Club
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Have you seen this and want details of the club?Phone 01633 423784 |
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GENERAL NEWS |
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SOUTH WALES MARATHON WALK In June, several GMC members participated in the annual South Wales Marathon Walk, which I organise. It is the oldest mountain challenge walk in the country, having originally been held in 1947. It has taken place every year since that time with the exception of the sad year when we had the Foot and Mouth outbreak. Entries are limited to just 30 people which makes the event very special. It is 47 miles in length with a total ascent of 9,500 feet and the average time taken for the route from Llanddeusant (4.30am start), over the Carmarthen Fans, Brecon Beacons and Black Mountains is about 15 hours. Numerous club members have participated sins the GMC was formed in 1976, but in recent years there have been only one or two of our members on the start sheet. So this year (2003), I was very pleased to receive entries from six of our members. These were: Alun Hughes, Ted Bumford, Mark Balch, Dawn Brown and Hugh Woodford.In total there were 22 starters, of which 4 retired at various points on the route. The first man home was Rod Hollands at 7.10pm and the last were two gents in their early seventies who reached Capel-y-ffin at 12.07am. Several club members, including three or four ladies have already expressed an interest in taking part next year and I am always grateful for offers of help with the feeding and checking etc. As you can imagine, the event takes a great deal of organising and I need a team of about 20 people to make it possible. Entry forms for next year's event will be available in January. Let me know if you would like to take part or help. |
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Newsletter Input |
A bumper newsletter, with some wonderful articles, and some very impressive climbs and trips. Thanks for a wonderful response. Main contributors.... Dave, Mark, Chris, Hugh, John, Trefor Beese, and Trevor Flint…some great stuff…and some great Pics. Thanks to Peter for the IT input. Next Newsletter will be in Jan/Feb after the Club Dinner. |
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WHAT’S BEEN HAPPENING! |
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Just a few Examples of club activities
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The South Wales Marathon 2003 |
Words by Dave Bingham |
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Dave Mark and Ted enjoy the fruits before their labour…. Pic by Chris Barber |
22 starters assembled at Llanddeusant Youth Hostel ready for the Marathon on June 7th, amongst them 6 club members – myself, “Huge” Woodford, Dawn Brown, Doctor Alun, Mark Balch and Ted Bumford. The helpers on the event were plentiful and included many members also, Alison, Stuart, Ian, Robby, and Gareth and organiser Chris Barber. Buoyed by the prospect of a dry day with only a possibility of showers much later in the day, an enthusiastic bunch set off in the early light at 4:30am. A damp mist greeted us on the Carmarthen Fans but on reaching the first drink station at the Cray Reservoir the air had dried considerably and the prospects were good. Biscuits were provided and then the route went around the north of Fan Gyhirych and across the steep slopes of Fan Nedd to reach another checkpoint at Llethr. Alison and Stuart, having already provided evening meal and breakfast at Llanddeusant, were busy helping out again! With that kind of support and goodwill the resolve deepened and I sped up to Corn Du, Pen y Fanand Cribyn were next and down to the Roman road to another manned checkpoint. At this stage of the walk Alun’s feet were becoming very sore and Hugh gave support as he painfully descended to Llanfrynach. The first person was back at 7:10pm and some came in after dark when the first spots of rain began. Everyone did well whatever the finish time, completing this walk is a real challenge. The distance of thisevent might be a little daunting, but mentally breaking the route into sections and the support at the checkpoints helps enormously and so I would urge anyone tempted, to give it a crack – you’ll get a great weekend out of it. Editors Note: 47 miles 9,500 ft of ascent… Phewwwwww!!! |
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Club Alpine Trip 2003, Randa, Switzerland |
Words and Pics by Trefor Beese |
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Lagginhorn
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This year the seven members of the party, Keith, Vaughan, Dave, Ali, John, Trefor, and newcomer Cameron opted for a chalet instead of camping.
Apart from one soaking, the weather was pretty good. We warmed up with an ascent of the Allallinhorn from the Tasch Hut.
Next came a day trip up a Lagginhorn with no snow on it. The nice little glacier at the bottom was horrible and icy, with crevasses seen for the first time.
Different groups then did different peaks, the Bishorn, Strahlhorn, Castor, Liskamm, Zumsteinspitze, with Cameron and John succeeding in the first club ascent of the Matterhorn this millenium.
Our last trip was all together to some of the “Tops” of the Breithorn. This was interrupted by us rescuing a lucky to be alive climber who fell when soloing. Cameron and John took him all the way back to Zermatt
See the slide show on the winter programme!
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The Matterhorn
John and Cameron on the Italian Summit
At the Solvay Hut
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Words and Pics by John Moore
It’s 5.15am and we’re standing at the base of the fixed ropes outside the Hornli Hut. Ahead of us lies about 1200m of climbing and scrambling to the summit of one of the world’s most famous mountains. It’s also one of the world’s most popular mountains, and having decided to avoid the worst of the breakfast mayhem by letting people get out of our way first, we’re now paying for it by waiting in a queue. Many of the people in front have paid their seven hundred Euros to be dragged up by a guide, and we’re counting on them being dragged out of the way fairly quickly. Eventually it’s our turn and we start up the route. My climbing partner is Cameron Speirs, who I’ve known for about a week. This has been enough to find out that he’s fit enough to make me look like a couch potato, and even more annoying, altitude doesn’t appear to have any effect on him. However, we seem to have established a good working relationship and right now there’s no one else I’d rather be attempting this with. By the time we get to the Solvay hut, which marks the 4000m point, the sun is shining brightly and the view over Zermatt and the surrounding mountains is simply stunning. But it’s not all good news. Cameron’s patience with the slower groups in front didn’t last very long, and having got past several of them we’ve now come up too quickly for my sensitivity to altitude. I haven’t yet got any of the headaches, nausea or dizziness yet, but I’m drained of energy and my coordination’s not quite what it should be. I know I’ve got to slow down if I’m going to make it to the top. Cameron, of course, is showing none of this. He’s all smiles, full of energy and eager to get going again. So he wasn’t very pleased when, as a slowing down tactic, I let one of the groups we’d just passed go back in front! I could see his point later on, that maybe it had been a bit too effective at slowing us down, as overtaking becomes impossible as the ridge narrows. However, the group in front had given up and abseiled down past us, as one of them was suffering with the altitude, so maybe it wasn’t such a bad idea after all. By the time we get to the top section of fixed ropes things are getting seriously interesting. There’s snow on the ground by now, and the route crosses onto the north side of the ridge, out of the sun. Add to the cold that there are people passing each other in both directions, with varying degrees of competence and consideration, and the result is absolute chaos. The chaos continues above the fixed rope with people getting in each other’s way, standing on ropes and generally behaving with the patience and courtesy of rush-hour commuters. Suddenly the crowds are gone and there’s no more up. There are a few people sitting round the summit, which is marked by nothing more than a small cornice and a monstrous drop into Italy. The summit of the Matterhorn is a fantastic position, the isolation from neighbouring peaks adding to the sense of height and exposure. The views across the surrounding mountains is unbelievable, with the snow capped peaks of the Alps stretching out for miles and miles… Or so I’m told. We couldn’t see bugger-all, because the small cloud often seen tethered to the summit was back in position. The whole experience seemed slightly unreal, as if I couldn’t quite believe where I was. Even saying it out loud didn’t seem to help. Any sense of elation was tempered by the fact that we still had to get down. The accident statistics reinforce what we’ve been told, that the hard part of doing the Matterhorn is getting back down again. The climbing on the way up hadn’t been especially difficult. With the fixed ropes there was nothing more than V-Diff, and even that came in short sections separated by easier scrambling. Still, there’s an awful lot of it, and down-climbing V-Diff is not to be taken lightly. However, that has to wait as Cameron is determined to follow the summit ridge to the lower Italian summit, which is marked by a photogenic iron cross, and I’m quite surprised to hear myself agreeing to this without any protest. Photographs out of the way, we’re back at the fixed ropes and we’ve encountered a few problems. The first is that it’s snowing. Is this the precursor to an Alpine afternoon thunderstorm? If so, that’s bad news, as we’re standing on a very large pointy thing sprinkled liberally with metal things. We need to get down quickly. Which brings us to the next problem. In front of us is a bearded German who is alternately lowering his partner, and then abseiling down the fixed ropes. Very thorough and very safe, just as long as he can still find suitable abseil belays in the dark! They’re moving very slowly and effectively blocking the route past. But after a couple of unsuccessful attempts our overtaking manoeuvre comes off and on we go. At this point we’re amazed to meet another party still coming up. It’s about an hour since we left the top and so probably nearer two before this group will get there. They’re in for a late one. The route down just goes on and on, with the hut at the bottom not getting noticeably closer. There’s no let up from the exposure either, you just have to ignore it and keep moving. Occasionally we pass some recognisable feature we remember from the ascent and think “What, are we only here?” It seems to take forever just to get to the Solvay hut. Oh good, just another 740m to go… Eventually, at about 7.00pm, we clamber down the last bit of fixed rope and collapse on the moraine above the Hornli Hut. I’m so tired I can hardly walk but immensely relieved to be on safer ground. We’ve long since missed the last cable car down to Zermatt but Cameron doesn’t want to stay at the hut again. Anyway, as we have just missed dinner there doesn’t seem much point. So after a handful of peanuts and some incredibly expensive water we start the 3-hour descent into the valley. Half an hour down the path we happen to look back, and what we see stops us in our tracks. We didn’t get this view on the way up because it was raining and the ridge was shrouded in mist. The cloud has now cleared off the summit but the sky looks grey and threatening. The mountain itself looks black and malevolent and absolutely awesome. This was the point where the magnitude of what we’d just done hit me. ” Wow! We went up there?”
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Terry’s Alps Trip
Khumba icefall..?
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Words and Pics by Terry Delbridge Being unable to get time off for the club trip to the Alps this year, I elected to go in late June – July, back down to Saas Grund – where Dave and I had a great time last year. I’m getting to know the campsite very well now, and also the walks around the valley. Being early, there was snow at 3km this year and it was great to get my feet into it early on. Trips to Ho-Saas and Langflue are my favourites and good for getting high, being at about 3km.
I elected to go with a guide this year for the 4km peaks, and paid my dues – regrettably for the Breithorn 4164m, which turned out to be a plod in brilliant sunshine – bagging at its best from the Kleine Matterhorn station.
During the second week, I stayed over at the Ho-Saas hut, and did the Weismies 4023m via the SE ridge. This was the one I particularly wanted with an impressive glacier yomp, complete with an aluminium ladder crossing on the bergschrund.
A great day out, and incredible views across to the Mischabel – and especially the Lenspitze face.
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Heaven’s Ridge |
Words and pic by Trevor Flint |
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Eiger Summit
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They call it “Heaven’s Ridge” I don’t disagree. For me, just to get to that small hut (Circled on the photo) and look down on the village that I had viewed the hut from, so many times in the past, had the tears welling up again. On the one side Grindelwald, on the other - eternal snow, and in between the Mittellegi Ridge.
Alan and I had had a great day on the Monch together the previous day and, later, we shared another one on the Jungfrau. But for this climb, (My birthday present from Di), we had booked local Guides.
Together we emerged from the Eismeer tunnel and headed off, after a leap of faith over the bergschrund, towards the Mittellegi Hut. Andi (Brogle) was not wrong when he told me that the hardest climbing was the first 3 pitches off the glacier to start the climb to the hut – but once the in-situ bolts had been passed it was an enjoyable but precarious walk. We passed (on their way down?) a group of 4 British climbers who had taken some 41/2 hours to where we had reached in less than 11/2, and eventually we were greeted, and welcomed to the Hut, by a smiling Eve (Left) the Hut Guardian - holding out a couple of beers. The new hut sleeps, (Did I really say sleeps?), 40 people, with Guides and Clients for once sharing the same room. The old hut has been re-sited at the Eigergletscher station, for prosperity, just above the Kleine Scheidegg. Dinner – a fantastic ‘Sweet & Sour Chicken’ followed shortly after the premeditated, but customary, photos. And so to bed. “Do I sleep at huts?” In a word “NO”. Does Alan? “Like a baby” I kid you not, literally within 2-3 minutes he’s off like a light! But not this night! At 2.00am, (2 hours early), I heard him get up. “He’s keen,” I thought. But he was off to the toilet – a delicate walk around the outside of the hut. 20 minutes later he hadn’t come back so up I got to look for him. He was sitting in the dining room. 20th August 2003 about 2.30am. What an incredible view outside the Hut. Not a cloud in the sky, millions of stars above, the lights of Grindelwald below, and ahead silhouetted against the deep blue sky - the climb – wow! Talk about feeling very small and humble. People who know me know that I do a lot of research on the mountains that I’d like to climb. But nothing, not the photos from the Web or even the video I have of the climb itself, that I had watched time and time again, prepared me for that moonlit view of the route. The route Alan and I would be on in less than 2 hours.
We set off in semi-darkness. It was 5-15am. Thankfully for me I was on a short rope as the first 20 minutes or so was a ridge walk “Crib Goch – ish” but this time there was nothing for the hands – no walking just below the ridge here, you had to walk on it. Like many reports I had read from previous climbers, I too was glad when there was something for the hands. Just once, (higher up, on one of these ledges, just after down-climbing the pinnacle, it was a “Bum shuffle” for me down the ridge some 15 feet to the next “Up”. But not for Alan. He was up on his two pins skating along it like a gazelle. I got the photo of him to prove it.
Our route up followed the right hand skyline, skyline on the photo above, i.e. three “Steps” and the summit ridge. The route down follows the left hand skyline, i.e. two abseils down South Ridge, two snow (ice) fields to cross and the North and South Eigerjoch to climb up and down (Yes more climbing) and finally the glacier traverse back to the Monchjoch Hut. The way down would take an hour longer than the way up. As morning light came, what a pleasure it was to look back down the ridge back to the hut, (See Photo left) and beyond to the Wetterhorn (Top left), the mountain I’d climbed with Trefor the year before. The disappointment of my not being here a year ago was now a distant memory. I was on the ridge at last, together with a friend as opposed to being alone with a Guide. What a bonus.
On the way up there were pinnacles to climb, again much like the ones on Crib Goch. These were mainly climbed free. Others were climbed with the aid of fixed ropes. Now I don’t do “Fixed ropes” – never could – not even in school. “Hand over hand” for me stops with the first “Hand”. So this was potentially another stopper. But as on the Matterhorn’s fixed rope section, it was easier to climb the rock – using the rope for balance and as a “Secure” handhold.
“Did the use of fixed ropes detract from the climb?” Not for me. Soon (almost too soon) the climbing stopped and the walking began again. But this time it was the summit ridge. The view in front? The Monch and Jungfrau. And then finally the summit, a piece of Di’s home made flap-jacks to eat, a stone to pick up to add to my collection and a short “Thank – You” prayer to say for such a wonderful day.
It was 8.10am and the day that will live in the memory forever was only half over. Was this a 4000-meter peak? “NO” Did I care? In a word “NO”
Ed…Apologies to Trevor, I couldn’t print all the pics he added to this, but couldn’t resist the text, which has to be one of the best I have ever read. He has to do a presentation on this.
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Monch and Jungfrau |
Words by Trevor Flint |
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Whilst the ‘A’ team were having a ball in the Randa/Zermatt area, Alan and I had a date in Grindelwald. Setting aside all common sense, after a visit to the Guide’s Office where we were advised that the ‘Nollen Route’ on the Monch was, for all but serious ice climbers, out of condition and not to be attempted, we boarded the last train bound for the Jungfraujoch. Final destination, the Monchjoch Hut.
The Nollen was another one of those routes that captures the imagination and on the ‘List’. Mainly ‘PD’ (Not difficult), but one that the local Guides only do on a 1:1 basis because of the near vertical ice climb about half way up the route. This year, because of the serious lack of snow, the normal 11/2 pitches required to climb that part of the route, (AD i.e. With difficulty), was now, (According to the local Guides), a massive 5 pitches. The ‘snow plod’ to the vertical pitch on the Nollen was sheet ice and the 6-10 hours was almost certainly into the double figures. Looking at the route from the Kleine Scheidegg there was absolutely no way Alan and I were heading off in that direction.
The normal routes on the Monch and Jungfrau were still on. However, because of the icy conditions, we were advised that the route grades had ‘gone up one’. The normal route on the Gross Fiescherhorn was ‘closed’ due to serious stone fall. The Finsteraarhorn was ‘effectively’ closed, not because of route problems but because the hut was being enlarged and could only sleep 12. But the most important information (from my point of view) was that the Mittellegi was still on. From Alan’s point of view it was the Jungfrau that beckoned – so up we went on that last train to the Jungfraujoch and then to the Monchjoch Hut (3680m, 11,960ft).
Fortunately we got away with it. Beechams for me, Panadol for Alan took care of the slight headaches, and the following morning we had a fabulous day – matched only by the weather on the Monch, where we had the summit ridge, up and down, and the top to ourselves. A couple of incidences fighting the crowds now flocking on their way up the mountain, as we were on our way down, couldn’t spoil the day, and soon we were back down and safe in the hut.
Ecstatic following our ascent of the Eiger, Friday found Alan and I heading off to the Jungfrau. Again a bright moonlit night and a good forecast – until the afternoon - they said. No need to rope up before the sphinx tunnel, (Unlike the guides who favoured roping up at the hut), we headed off on what would be a 300m (~ 1000ft) descent to the start of the climb. All routes from the hut start off by going DOWN! Would you believe? Not roping up at the hut turned out to be a good decision in the end because somewhere along the way to the Sphinx tunnel, (35 minutes from the hut), I lost all of my water from the Platypus. Fortunately the toilets were open at the Jungfraujoch and I was able to fill up), and so we set off again, still downhill, but this time roped up, jumping crevasses until we thought we’d reached the stat of the climbing. A collapsed snow bridge, that had quite obviously happened that morning had other ideas, forcing us to find another way around the crevasse, but eventually we began the rock scramble / snow traverses and the couple of pitches that eventually took us to the top - where “X” literally marked the spot. Not withstanding a short, sharp and not so private tête-à-tête with an Italian Guide on the way down, who had unilaterally deciding that he and his clients could use our ice screw belay system as a ‘hand rail’ to get them down this little ‘tricky bit’ before I was able to come down, we eventually made the glacier again where I was treated to a ‘Husky’ ride. I don’t know what Alan was on, (But whatever it was I’d like some), but I ended up again on my bum being towed along downhill by Alan for at least a minute before he eventually stopped and we started thinking about crevasses again. I could well understand his euphoria. The ‘local’ weather remained good, but it looked a bit bleak in the direction of Zermatt and the ‘A’ team.
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North Wales 23-25th August |
Words By Hugh Woodford |
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Elli, Hugh and Mark…eating again Pic by Annemarie Simons |
The club headed to Capel Curig’s top totty spot, Dolgam campsite, for a weekend of walks, climbs and scrambles. The campsite was awarded the GMC’s seal of approval, in spite of there being only 2 showers and one washing up sink for up to 500 campers. 14 of us turned up – our best August Bank holiday turn out in 3 years.
On Saturday evening there was a BBQ before heading off to the pub, the Tyn Coed, whilst on Sunday evening at the same venue the GMC North Wales Pool Challenge saw Terry defeat Dave 2-1 (Yessssssss……. Terry’s comment…) Rumour has it that Dave will be putting in a minimum of 5 hours practice daily to try to reverse the result next year. On the way back from the pub on Sunday a new club section was formed – the astronomy section. Shooting stars were viewed, as well as the usual plethora of stars, satellites etc. It wasn’t all fun and games however. Walks included Heather Terrace, Glyders & Devil’s Kitchen, Moel Siabod, Craig Eigiau; Scrambles were East Gully Ridge, Glyder Fach (2/3***), Craig yr Ysfa Ampitheatre, Carnedd Llewellyn (2*) Climbs were completed on Idwal slabs (Hope, Charity, Lazarus, Ordinary Route Buttress; Tremadog (Oberon S, Poor Man’s Peuterey HS, Great Western VS,) Capel Pinnacles, Capel Curig; Little Tryfan.
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Lakes Weekend 12 - 13th July |
Words and Pic by Mark Balch |
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Berry Kiddel, Jane Thomas, Elli Mauser, Anne Johnstone and John Moore.
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Myself and John Moore took a half days leave in order to get to Wasdale at a reasonable time... We had foolishly promised Elli and Jane, who were to travel up after a full day's work, to put up Elli's new tent (which had never been attempted before!!) I think it took John and myself about an hour which took us up to 0100h...There was still no sign of them so we headed off to our tents for a bit of kip. In the morning we found them in the tent which they had miraculously found with the help of my detailed instructions left on my car windscreen...In addition to Elli and Jane a few more visitors arrived during the course of the weekend...Names I remember were Ali Stephens, Vaughan Dugmore, Keith Anderson, Dave Simcock, Anne Johnstone and Berry Kiddell, and also a mate of mine Dave Solly.Apologies to antone I have missed !!!!
Saturday morning started a bit grim with a few drops of rain. Climbing was called off so it was decided to head off and do the Mosedale Circuit.The most challenging part of the walk was a 727m climb from Wasdale Head to Kirkfell...Jane, Elli, Me, John, Anne and Berry headed off at a steady pace but the pace at the front soon picked up (doesn't it always ?) Myself and John soon noticed that the others were just specks in the distance. We headed up to the top (I won't reveal who got the gold medal, and it isn't a race but I just can't help myself sometimes...!!) Anyway, we waited at the top for, what seemed like, an eternity. We were both freezing. My little legs were covered in goose bumps, and my teeth were chattering...
The next day the weather was absolutely pants. Climbing was definately out the question so myself, John, Dave Solly, Elli and Jane headed up to Lingmell (approx 800m elevation) from the campsite. The climb was a lot steadier than the previous days' but the wind and rain made the going tough but it was great fun (?)...Weather cleared up later as we headed back down to camp...Keith, Dug, Dave and Ali didn't enjoy good weather either. However, this should come as no surprise at all from a meteorological point of view, as they were also camping at Wasdale !! They arrived on Sat morning after an alarmingly early start from South Wales…..Attempts were made to climb but the weather soon ruled that out.
However, during the course of the weekend they enjoyed 'Threading the Needle' which is a scramble near Great Gable and also did a bit around Langdale…..Dug was reported to have headed up to Kirkfell on the Monday but again the weather discouraged anything too adventurous.... Myself, John, Elli and Ali attempted to make the Guinness Book of Records on the way back to the valleys by loading as much gear and bodies into a standard sized Vauxhall Astra as possible. All arrived safely back at base with memories of a good weekend !! |
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MISCELLANEOUS
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Respects paid at last for Ian Blakey |
Words and pic by Trefor Beese |
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Club members of more than 6 years standing will remember that Ian died in an accident in 1997. I regrettably missed his funeral, and it has taken me 6 years to go to the North East side of England and visit the grave. I also visited his parents, and was shown pictures of myself with Ian in Grindelwald in 1993! The club members who attended the funeral will not have seen the headstone, so here is a photo
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Exchange & sales |
Roger Millett has a pair of size 12 Chris Brasher boots for sale excellent condition @ £25. tel. 01873 880684. Terry’s daughter has some trekking pants (ladies small) and some heavy gaiters for sale - 01600860699 no reasonable offer refused. |
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Hi Tech Stuff |
Peter Salenieks……has worked out how to produce maps showing the start points for walks on the Club programme and generate driving directions automatically. This is based around the mapping facilities in Microsoft Autoroute. If you think this is a good idea, perhaps u could email Peter and our Programme Officers with support. |
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Bristol Wilderness Lectures
Doug Scott Lecture |
The 2003-4 programme features speakers, such as Sir Robin Knox-Johnston, Col Narinder Kumar and Catherine Destivelle, that can seldom be seen locally. See www.wildernesslectures.com for further details. Thanks Peter. 'Sacred Summits' At the Abergavenny Borough Theatre on Sunday 9th November at 7.30 pm (Not 9th October as shown on GMC Programme)
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Family Height rankings |
Words by Trefor Beese |
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Despite their successful trips to Alpine 4000 metre peaks (see above articles), Trevor Flint and Trefor Beese both suffered a demotion in their respective family height rankings. Trevor’s son Richard (15) and Trefor’s daughter Megan (under 30!) (and son in law Tim) climbed the same 6088 metre peak Hyuana Potosi in Bolivia in mid July, a few days apart. If they were paid up club members Dave Bingham would have some work to do on his tables! |
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Follow that lot ……!! Thanks for all the Contributions. Don’t forget to drop me a note with anything you do to Jan/Feb..!!
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